The developmental stage of chewing and nipping in puppies can be challenging to deal with. They may chew up items around the house, like your favorite pair of shoes. Their manner of play is with their mouth, so they are constantly going at you with an open mouth. Cairn Terriers have needle sharp teeth and it's painful to get nipped or scratched. Understanding how to respond will help you get through this stage.
First of all, use puppy gates and close doors, to give your puppy a safe play space. (also protect carpet areas from potty accidents) Ensure you have puppy proofed your home by removing dangerous items that a puppy could get into, just like you would for a child. Electrical cords should be put up, small items they could choke on, etc. By removing items they have access to, you can prevent inappropriate chewing. Offer lots of toys appropriate for their size to play with and chew, and keep them busy. Use the crate as a way to safely contain them when you can't actively watch them. But ensure that you're using it appropriately for crate training. (crating 24-7 is not appropriate crate use) The best times to crate are after a good hard play session when puppy needs to nap.
Having chew toys available is also the key to redirect mouthing and nipping. Never use your hands as toys, by allowing the puppy to chase and attack your hands or feet. When puppy mouths at you during petting, redirect them to an appropriate toy. Praise them for chewing on the toy. This article gives some good advice: http://ddfl.org/behavior/pup-nip.pdf
My only thought after reading about yelping and ignoring them to reduce nipping behavior, is that in essence the puppy is learning a way to dominate you by controling your behavior. Dominant dogs in a pack nip or growl to show their dominance, and submissive members retreat or roll to their backs to show submission. Although you aren't "rolling on your back" you are retreating. For Cairn Terrier puppies that have an alpha type disposition, I wonder if this could create problems over time? Chances are, the puppy is going to outgrow the nipping stage before problems could be created, but it's something to think about if you experience this behavior beyond the puppy stage. (if a Cairn growls or snaps when you're doing something they don't like, don't retreat! Take assertive control.) The dominant one in the pack would not retreat, but would respond with assertive control. Since dominance is more of an issue in the Cairn Terrier than shyness, I would just be aware of it. I personally have not been against flipping a puppy in the nose when they come at your hand, as an immediate response. I only use it when all other attempts have been exhausted and with the right timing, puppy thinks it "ran into your finger". The same strategy is used for horses. The quote of horse trainer Clinton Anderson is "Be as light as possible, but as firm as necessary" (in speaking about horses which I apply to all areas of life). If I were another puppy, I would bite back. Same for horses, if I were another horse I'd kick, and a kick hurts a heck of a lot worse than a whack with a handy stick (tool used in training horses). Some people are mortified that you would ever "hit" a horse. But you know..... horses who are owned by people like that are dangerous when they dominate their handler! I've seen a horse that flat ran over their owner and she couldn't control him at all. Then I heard her speaking in the restroom about how another trainer had "hit" her horse and how awful it was. I wanted to say "Maam, maybe if you'd 'hit' your horse once in a while, he wouldn't run over and try to kill you!" By the way, the hitting I'm referring to is with a handy stick, a light weight long stick that is used to control space around a horse. Horses that invade your space get a quick wack which couldn't hurt them if you tried. It's just a wake up call that they must obey your personal space. So with that, I guess you can understand my matter of fact view, that if a puppy repeatedly bloodies your hand and won't be redirected, it's time to take an appropriate firmer approach. Be as light as possible, but as firm as necessary. And by firm, it is never hitting for aggression or to hurt an animal, but is taking action to control behavior as strongly as necessary.
Showing posts with label Training. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Training. Show all posts
Thursday, February 28, 2008
Wednesday, September 19, 2007
Dogs and Children
I was reading an article that was kind of interesting and I can honestly say I have no opinion since I've (in whisper....never seen the show by Cesar Millan on "Dog Whisperer"). I whispered that because I do love training and honestly, our TV rarely gets changed from Nickelodeon or Discovery Channel because I rarely sit down to watch it! So I can't comment on the show. I can comment on people's views and comments. Some seemed to be relatively good observations, others were just expressed opinions.
My experience with training has been from living with and training my dogs. My formal education in training has primarily been in horses, which being a prey animal they do have a set of slightly different instincts and responses. The rest of my knowledge just comes from behavior modification that I learned in my degree of Psychology. I haven't had formal dog training classes but really want to find time to take some with my friend and trainer, Ashli. I enjoy it all very much, it's just hard to make time! I come from the the thought of making good behaviors easy and bad behaviors difficult. I've read some books but the rest of my knowledge is from experience.
I did want to comment about dogs and children since I've lived that! Dogs are animals with a set of instinct first, and training brings out the ability to react in a thinking manner. Without training, dogs respond by their own instinct (which isn't necessarily socially appropriate in the world of humans). Dogs respond to others (including humans) with their own pack & dog social rules. Direct eye contact and an upright stance means aggression or domination. Since children are the same eye level as large breeds, and stand with an upright position, they appear aggressive to large dogs and this is why children often get bitten. Children also don't heed a dog's warnings, they don't speak dog and don't usually understand that a dog's growl is a warning- back off, quit, show me submission. If you're going to have dogs with children, it takes a great deal of training and teaching of both the children and the dog. The dog needs to be shown they are submissive to all family members, including the children. Dogs have a pecking order in the pack. Your family is their pack. Their ranking is at the bottom. Some dogs will challenge this ranking and try to be above the children. This should never happen, and if it does the dog will nip and dominate the child and you have a recipe for disaster. Children (whether you have dogs or not) need to be taught respect, empathy, and kindness to others. They have to be taught not to put their face in the dog's face, not to hit, pull the dogs ears or tail, jump on them, ride them, and all the things that children think must be good ideas at the time. My children are empathetic, loving little kids, and before the age of 4, you'll still catch them doing inappropriate things like chasing the dog with a stick. They can't think through their actions and understand that it would hurt the dog if they hit them. It just seems like a good idea at the time. Here's a stick, that dog is running, let's chase it! Young children aren't able to empathize and understand the point of view of the dog's. But what a perfect time (at age 3+yrs) to start teaching them and talk through what a dog might feel if you were to hit it. I've seen children who were not redirected and puppies who were being held by one leg or abused in public. Parents are at fault and then when the dog bites a child, it's "the dog's fault". Good dogs will defend themselves too. It's so important to never let it get that far.
If you have small children and are interested in getting a dog, choose a small but non-fragile breed that is good with children. Many large breeds are good with children, but choose the breed wisely due to the size and height of a child's eye contact. The Cairn Terrier is good with children, with parents who are willing to spend the time to train the dog and the child, monitor their interaction, and redirect the child or the dog when interacting inappropriate. This means a lot of work! Puppies have sharp nails, sharp teeth, and they go through a nipping stage. Their sign of submission is to lick in the face, but we don't want our children licked and/or nipped in the face. It takes a lot of effort to observe and control their interactions and ensure that they are good interactions. Prevent problem behaviors in both the dog and the child and as they grow, and they will have a relationship that can't be replaced by any other. Children who learn to nurture, be empathetic, and be kind to animals carries over to appropriate social interaction and they will become well adjusted children and adults.
My experience with training has been from living with and training my dogs. My formal education in training has primarily been in horses, which being a prey animal they do have a set of slightly different instincts and responses. The rest of my knowledge just comes from behavior modification that I learned in my degree of Psychology. I haven't had formal dog training classes but really want to find time to take some with my friend and trainer, Ashli. I enjoy it all very much, it's just hard to make time! I come from the the thought of making good behaviors easy and bad behaviors difficult. I've read some books but the rest of my knowledge is from experience.
I did want to comment about dogs and children since I've lived that! Dogs are animals with a set of instinct first, and training brings out the ability to react in a thinking manner. Without training, dogs respond by their own instinct (which isn't necessarily socially appropriate in the world of humans). Dogs respond to others (including humans) with their own pack & dog social rules. Direct eye contact and an upright stance means aggression or domination. Since children are the same eye level as large breeds, and stand with an upright position, they appear aggressive to large dogs and this is why children often get bitten. Children also don't heed a dog's warnings, they don't speak dog and don't usually understand that a dog's growl is a warning- back off, quit, show me submission. If you're going to have dogs with children, it takes a great deal of training and teaching of both the children and the dog. The dog needs to be shown they are submissive to all family members, including the children. Dogs have a pecking order in the pack. Your family is their pack. Their ranking is at the bottom. Some dogs will challenge this ranking and try to be above the children. This should never happen, and if it does the dog will nip and dominate the child and you have a recipe for disaster. Children (whether you have dogs or not) need to be taught respect, empathy, and kindness to others. They have to be taught not to put their face in the dog's face, not to hit, pull the dogs ears or tail, jump on them, ride them, and all the things that children think must be good ideas at the time. My children are empathetic, loving little kids, and before the age of 4, you'll still catch them doing inappropriate things like chasing the dog with a stick. They can't think through their actions and understand that it would hurt the dog if they hit them. It just seems like a good idea at the time. Here's a stick, that dog is running, let's chase it! Young children aren't able to empathize and understand the point of view of the dog's. But what a perfect time (at age 3+yrs) to start teaching them and talk through what a dog might feel if you were to hit it. I've seen children who were not redirected and puppies who were being held by one leg or abused in public. Parents are at fault and then when the dog bites a child, it's "the dog's fault". Good dogs will defend themselves too. It's so important to never let it get that far.
If you have small children and are interested in getting a dog, choose a small but non-fragile breed that is good with children. Many large breeds are good with children, but choose the breed wisely due to the size and height of a child's eye contact. The Cairn Terrier is good with children, with parents who are willing to spend the time to train the dog and the child, monitor their interaction, and redirect the child or the dog when interacting inappropriate. This means a lot of work! Puppies have sharp nails, sharp teeth, and they go through a nipping stage. Their sign of submission is to lick in the face, but we don't want our children licked and/or nipped in the face. It takes a lot of effort to observe and control their interactions and ensure that they are good interactions. Prevent problem behaviors in both the dog and the child and as they grow, and they will have a relationship that can't be replaced by any other. Children who learn to nurture, be empathetic, and be kind to animals carries over to appropriate social interaction and they will become well adjusted children and adults.
Thursday, August 23, 2007
First Nights Home
So you've been waiting months for this new little bundle of energy to come into your life. Then you bring them home and they poop, pee, and cry!!!! What can I do!?
The first step in successfully bringing a new puppy home is to do your homework BEFORE you pick up your puppy. Read up on training, crate training, puppy care, prepare your home for this new little arrival. It's just like having a human baby! Find out what kind of food your breeder feeds and have it purchased (along with supplies) before the puppy comes home. Ensure you have puppy proofed your home, have a schedule, and a plan. Who will be the primary trainer/care giver (needs to be an adult in the household)? If you work outside the home, who will let the puppy out to potty mid-day? What will your schedule be for crate training? What are the first few commands you should work on before puppy classes start? What type of training treats should you use? Read, plan, and prepare!
On the day you pick up your puppy, it's helpful to take a soft toy to the breeder's to rub on the siblings and/or mother for a comforting scent. There are warm puppy cuddle pals that you can warm in the microwave to give puppy a warm companion to sleep with. It may also be helpful to place something in their crate that you've worn, to comfort them with your scent after a day of bonding.
After dinner, potty time, play time, and last minute potty time again, it's bed time. Puppies sleep in a crate, not your bed. Their needs for food, and potty have been met and they are worn down and sleepy at bed time. Place them in the crate and ignore their cries to be let out and held. After 10-15min if they are still crying, firmly tell them no and ignore them. They will soon quiet down and realize crying doesn't get them out of their crate. Most puppies can hold it in the night for 6-8hrs. Taking a puppy out of the crate upon crying at bedtime teaches them all they have to do is cry, and they trained you to come get them. So as hard as it is, don't let them train you! It may be helpful to place their crate by your bed, so they know where you are.
The first few nights and weeks can be difficult with potty accidents, crying, puppy nipping, and chewing. But hang in there! It gets better! And try to enjoy those sweet snuggly puppies because just like children they grow up all too fast!
The first step in successfully bringing a new puppy home is to do your homework BEFORE you pick up your puppy. Read up on training, crate training, puppy care, prepare your home for this new little arrival. It's just like having a human baby! Find out what kind of food your breeder feeds and have it purchased (along with supplies) before the puppy comes home. Ensure you have puppy proofed your home, have a schedule, and a plan. Who will be the primary trainer/care giver (needs to be an adult in the household)? If you work outside the home, who will let the puppy out to potty mid-day? What will your schedule be for crate training? What are the first few commands you should work on before puppy classes start? What type of training treats should you use? Read, plan, and prepare!
On the day you pick up your puppy, it's helpful to take a soft toy to the breeder's to rub on the siblings and/or mother for a comforting scent. There are warm puppy cuddle pals that you can warm in the microwave to give puppy a warm companion to sleep with. It may also be helpful to place something in their crate that you've worn, to comfort them with your scent after a day of bonding.
After dinner, potty time, play time, and last minute potty time again, it's bed time. Puppies sleep in a crate, not your bed. Their needs for food, and potty have been met and they are worn down and sleepy at bed time. Place them in the crate and ignore their cries to be let out and held. After 10-15min if they are still crying, firmly tell them no and ignore them. They will soon quiet down and realize crying doesn't get them out of their crate. Most puppies can hold it in the night for 6-8hrs. Taking a puppy out of the crate upon crying at bedtime teaches them all they have to do is cry, and they trained you to come get them. So as hard as it is, don't let them train you! It may be helpful to place their crate by your bed, so they know where you are.
The first few nights and weeks can be difficult with potty accidents, crying, puppy nipping, and chewing. But hang in there! It gets better! And try to enjoy those sweet snuggly puppies because just like children they grow up all too fast!
Wednesday, March 21, 2007
Bodie Available
Bodie is coming back home to no fault of his own. He apparently barked at squirrels, ran back and forth trying to get to them, and she was unable to redirect him. However, I believe it is not an inability to redirect as much as it was that she didn't know how to respond to him, or wasn't prepared and committed to having a Cairn Terrier. I've redirected him from barking before, and was working on the command "in your bed" for the purpose of redirection. Cairn Terriers were bred to hunt vermin, and I don't own a Cairn Terrier that won't go nuts over a squirrel sitting across a glass door a few feet from them. I have squirrels that sit above the kennel and drop nuts on my Cairns, or sit just outside the kennel asking for trouble! "No bark" is a rule that should be taught to any dog. It's ok to alert to something new and different, but after that, excessive barking is not ok. A way to redirect a dog, is to place a lead on them and scold them with a simple "No Bark" with a firm but non-aggressive yank on the lead. They should show submission and respond appropriately (stop barking). Going in their bed and staying there is a basic obedience command that is very useful when dogs get overly excited about visitors, squirrels, or whatever the distraction may be. If they are too excited to respond to "in your bed", take control by placing a lead on them. Cairn Terriers cannot resist the urge to chase and squirrels are their prime target. Obedience training is not an option, it's a necessity. Practice commands in your daily life. Then when they get too excited, you have tools to use to redirect them. If all esle fails, place a lead on them and take control of the situation. I haven't had a Cairn Terrier that I couldn't take control of physically if not mentally!
Sunday, March 4, 2007
Spoiling Your Dog and Behavioral Issues
Have you ever thought that by letting your dog sleep with you, eat with you, and sleep on the couch that you were just loving them and they appreciated it? Do you think they love you more by giving them special privileges? Spoiling your dog without rules and setting limits can be the start of behavioral problems that could lead to dangerous issues. There is a difference between loving them and spoiling them. A dog lives in a world of hierarchy and for many dogs, the goal is to raise their ranking or be the top ranking within the "pack". Particularly in the Cairn Terrier breed, they have characteristics of indpendence and dominance. This is why obedience training and maintaining your domiance is so important. Dogs rank lower than all family members, including the children. You eat before they do, you decide where they sleep (in a crate), and if you allow pets on your furniture, you decide when they can be on the furniture by inviting them there. This all establishes your dominance in the relationship. Practice obedience in your daily life. Tell them to sit before eating, going outside, before a treat, etc. Teach them to quietly stay in their bed when company comes, while you're watching TV, etc. I'm currently working with a rescue dog that thinks he ranks under me but above my kids. His ranking has created the issue of nipping children, and I'm trying to do all that I can to reduce his ranking in the family to below our kids. I have rolled him to his back and allowed my kids to hold him there in the submissive position. They show their dominance by feeding him, taking toys away from him, asking him to sit, and reward him with a treat. Here's an article that I found helpful about alpha personalities. Regardless of whether your dog has an alpha personality, all dogs should be given structure and rules. You can pamper and love your dog without spoiling it.
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